Finding your way around
El Baix Empordà and l’Alt Empordà to the north are collectively referred to as L’Empordà, which makes sense, really. The northernmost of these three ‘comarcas’, running from the border with France south to the town of L’Escala, is the Alt Empordà, or the ‘Upper Empordà’, so no prizes for guessing that the Baix Empordà is the ‘Lower Empordà’.
South of El Baix Empordà, the ‘comarca’ of Gironès almost makes it to the sea but is cut off just before it reaches the coast by the ‘comarca’ of La Selva. This stretches down to Blanes, where La Costa Brava ends, and Barcelona’s La Costa del Maresme begins. All fall within the Province of Girona, one of the four provinces that make up Catalunya… but we’re sure you knew that already, so we’ll move on.
The three largest towns in El Baix Empordà by population are Palafrugell (about 24,000 inhabitants), Sant Feliu de Guíxols (around 23,000) and Palamós (around 18,500), according to the latest statistics (2024–2025). The ‘comarca’ capital, however, is La Bisbal d’Empordà, with a population of just under 12,000. The total full-time population of the county has remained relatively stable at around 132,000 over the past decade, though this figure naturally increases during the summer months.
El Baix Empordà is such a truly remarkable ‘comarca’ that narrowing it down to just ten highlights is no easy task, but we tried anyway. Here, in no particular order, are our picks, and we hope you get to experience as many of them as possible.
Medieval villages
It makes sense to begin with some of the oldest places in the region. Like much of Catalunya, the Baix Empordà is dotted with beautifully preserved medieval villages. These are not ruins, but living places that have changed very little over the centuries. Aside from the occasional parked car, it is easy to imagine stepping back into the Middle Ages.
Some villages are well known and therefore busier, such as Pals, Peratallada and Palau-sator. If you prefer something quieter, there are plenty of equally impressive alternatives with far fewer visitors, including Corçà, Cruïlles, Monells and Sant Sadurní de l’Heura.
Ullastret deserves a special mention. Alongside the village itself lie the remains of an ancient Iberian settlement, one of the best preserved archaeological sites of its kind in Catalunya.
Despite its popularity, Pals remains a favourite. The village sits on a small hill, overlooking fertile countryside, traditional rice fields and, on clear days, views stretching all the way to the sea.
Pals is also relatively easy to reach without a car. A small tourist train, the Xiulet de Pal, runs several guided routes through the area, connecting the village with nearby rice fields and neighbouring medieval settlements such as Sant Feliu de Boada, Fontclara, Peratallada and Palau-sator.
Púbol and the Dalí Triangle (part of it)
One medieval village not yet mentioned is Púbol, which marks the southern point of the Dalí Triangle. The other two locations lie further north in the neighbouring county of Alt Empordà, but Púbol firmly belongs to the Baix Empordà.
In 1968–1969, the internationally renowned Catalan artist Salvador Dalí purchased and restored a largely dilapidated medieval castle in Púbol as a gift for his wife, Gala. Over the following years, the couple undertook extensive restoration work, transforming the building into a style entirely their own.
Following Gala’s death in 1982, she was buried in the castle, after which Dalí himself moved in. Since 1996, the building has been open to the public as the Castell Gala-Dalí de Púbol, offering a fascinating insight into the private world of the artist and his muse.
For a broader context, including the other sites linked to Dalí’s life and work, see our article Salvador Dalí and the Museum Triangle.
Natural Baix Empordà
With the Baix Empordà countryside already around us, it makes sense to explore its natural landscapes a little further. One of the best ways to experience this part of the region is on foot or by bike, with a wide network of routes crossing fields, forests and gentle hills.
One of the most notable long-distance routes is the Pirinexus, a circular trail designed primarily for cyclists but equally suitable for walking. The route links the French Pyrenees with the Catalan coast, passing through Girona province before looping back north via Catalunya Nord. One of its southern points is Sant Feliu de Guíxols, firmly within the Baix Empordà.
The Baix Empordà section of the Pirinexus runs from Bellcaire d’Empordà to Sant Feliu de Guíxols and incorporates the greenway between Palafrugell and Palamós, known locally as the Ruta del Tren Petit. This former railway line offers a gentle, largely flat ride through farmland and woodland. For those who prefer a little assistance, e-bikes are widely available, making the route accessible to almost everyone.
Closer to Sant Feliu de Guíxols, the hills of Les Gavarres provide a very different landscape. This wooded massif, dominated by oak forests, has been classified as an Area of Natural Interest since 1992 and covers more than 28,000 hectares. Well-marked walking trails criss-cross the area, passing medieval farmhouses, small churches and other historical remains. Les Gavarres is also recognised as the main mountain bike area of the Baix Empordà.
Further north, just beyond Torroella de Montgrí, lies the Massís del Montgrí. This compact mountain range offers rewarding hikes with wide views across the Empordà plain and out to the sea. The landscape also bears traces of former vineyards, abandoned after the 19th-century phylloxera outbreaks, adding another historical layer to the scenery.
Golfing Empordà style
If golf is your thing, you’re very much in the right place. The Empordà is one of Catalunya’s most established golfing regions, with a wide variety of courses set amid open countryside, pine forests and views towards the Montgrí massif.
Within easy reach of the Baix Empordà, you’ll find everything from full championship courses to high-quality pitch-and-putt layouts, making the area suitable for both experienced players and those just starting out. Several courses combine excellent design with a relaxed, unhurried atmosphere that fits the rhythm of the region perfectly.
Rather than going into too much detail here, you can find a more complete overview in our article on Golfing in the Girona–Empordà Region, which covers the main courses, locations and playing styles across the area.
Gastronomy
Girona province has long been recognised for its outstanding gastronomy and has played an important role in shaping modern Catalan cuisine. Chefs such as Ferran Adrià, whose restaurant El Bulli near Roses was repeatedly named among the world’s best before closing in 2011, helped place the region firmly on the international culinary map. Nearby, El Celler de Can Roca, run by brothers Joan, Jordi and Josep Roca, has continued that tradition with its own distinctive approach.
That same culinary richness is very much present in the Baix Empordà, where the flavours of mar i muntanya (sea and mountain) come together naturally. Fresh seafood from the coast meets high-quality produce from fertile inland plains, creating a cuisine that is both rooted and refined.
Local specialities such as Gambas de Palamós, rockfish from Begur and sea urchins from the fishing towns around Palafrugell are central to the region’s food culture. For those looking to explore it in more depth, the Michelin Guide remains a reliable point of reference, highlighting restaurants that respect both tradition and quality.
Empordà wines
A good meal in the Empordà is rarely complete without a bottle of local wine. The region’s wine tradition was formally recognised in 1972 with the creation of the D.O. Empordà, originally known as D.O. Empordà-Costa Brava, which was shortened to its current name in 2006.
The landscape and climate closely shape the character of Empordà wines. The Tramuntana wind, while not always popular with locals, plays a vital role in vineyard health by reducing humidity and limiting the spread of vine diseases. It also helps protect against frost, contributing to wines that are fresh and structured. This influence has even led to Empordà wines being described as ‘Wines of the Wind’.
While many of the best-known wineries are located in the Alt Empordà, particularly closer to the French border, the Baix Empordà is home to a growing number of high-quality producers as well. Around towns such as Calonge, vineyards are once again becoming a visible part of the landscape.
For those who would like to explore further, the region offers plenty of opportunities to experience Empordà wines first-hand, from winery visits and tastings to small wine bars, local events and even wine-based wellness treatments, all within easy reach.
If you’d like to place Empordà wines in a broader context, our Wines of Catalunya article offers a closer look at the region’s wine history and its place within Catalan winemaking as a whole.
Water sports and activities
With both coastline and rivers close at hand, the Baix Empordà offers plenty of options for water-based activities. Along the coast, you can go snorkelling or scuba diving, rent a kayak or small boat, join a glass-bottom boat trip, or head out on the water with a skipper for a half-day sailing experience.
Inland, rivers such as the River Ter provide a calmer setting for canoeing and kayaking, especially popular in spring and early summer. Whether you prefer something active or a more relaxed outing on the water, there are options to suit different moods and experience levels.
Availability varies by town and season, so local tourist offices are a good starting point for up-to-date information and recommendations.
Coastal towns
Because of the constant threat posed by Mediterranean pirates during the Middle Ages, and well into the 19th century, most Catalan and Spanish settlements were founded a few kilometres inland rather than directly on the coast. Many seaside towns we know today, such as L’Estartit, Sant Antoni de Calonge and Llafranc, began as little more than clusters of fishermen’s huts belonging to inland villages like Torroella de Montgrí, Calonge and Palafrugell.
Ports were essential, pirates or no pirates. Towns such as Sant Feliu de Guíxols, Palamós and L’Escala therefore developed directly on the coast, with their own industries and strong maritime identities. Unlike many smaller coastal settlements, these towns have permanent populations and remain lively year-round rather than slipping into winter hibernation.
L’Escala technically lies in the Alt Empordà, but as it sits right on the border with the Baix Empordà, it earns a place here. The modern town dates from the 16th century, though settlement in the area goes back much further. Ancient Greek traders arrived first, followed later by the Romans, whose Greco-Roman ruins can still be visited just outside the town today. History aside, L’Escala is also a lovely place to wander, especially along the seafront, with plenty of good places to eat and drink.
Further south, the area around Palamós has been inhabited since ancient times, but its real development began in the mid-13th century when King Peter III of Aragon ordered the construction of a new port to replace one that had silted up further north. Over the centuries, Palamós endured attacks by Barbary pirates under the infamous Redbeard, outbreaks of plague, repeated French assaults and bombardments during the Spanish Civil War.
Today, Palamós is Catalunya’s third-largest port, after Barcelona and Tarragona, welcoming around 50 to 60 cruise ships each year. Despite this, it has retained a distinctly local feel, with several small coves and a long sandy beach stretching some 3.5 kilometres across the Bay of Palamós to Torre Valentina in Sant Antoni de Calonge.
With its 10th-century Benedictine monastery as a defining landmark, Sant Feliu de Guíxols is another seaside town rich in history. It has weathered wars, plague, famine and drought, yet survived to prosper from the 18th century onwards, mainly through fishing and the local cork industry. The town also suffered bombing during the Civil War, but recovered once again, and today it’s a picturesque coastal town that lives mainly from fishing and tourism.
Coastal walking trails
One of the great highlights of the Baix Empordà is its network of coastal walking trails. We’ve already covered this in depth in our article on the Camí de Ronda, known in Castellano as Caminos de Ronda. These beautiful paths run largely along the coastline, from Cadaqués in the north to Sant Feliu de Guíxols in the south.
Some sections are demanding, others wonderfully gentle, but together they offer one of the finest ways to experience the Costa Brava on foot. Have a look through the article to find the stretch that suits you best. There really is something for everyone.
Beaches
For many visitors, the beaches are the very heart of La Costa Brava. Along the Baix Empordà coastline you’ll find everything from wide, sandy beaches to hidden coves tucked between rocky headlands. Some are lively and easy-going, others feel wonderfully untouched.
There’s no need to list them all here, as we’ve already done that for you in a separate article. From long family-friendly beaches to quiet coves perfect for snorkelling, we selected our Best Costa Brava Beaches of the Baix Empordà to help you choose where to spend a slow day by the sea… perhaps with a swim, a walk along the shore, and a cold ‘cervesa’ at a nearby xiringuito.
And there you have it: our Top 10 Highlights of the Baix Empordà. Now it’s up to you.