What’s in a name?

The ‘Caldes’ part of the name is fairly straightforward. In Catalan, it refers to thermal springs, mineral water baths that rise naturally from the ground at a temperature higher than their surroundings. You may sometimes see it written as ‘Caldas’, which carries the same meaning in Spanish. Both versions trace their roots back to the Latin ‘Aquae Calidae’, or ‘hot waters’, the name the Romans gave to the settlement.

The waters here are rich in sodium chloride and sodium bicarbonate, and they emerge at temperatures up to 60 °C. The second part of the name, ‘de Malavella’, comes from a local legend first recorded in documents dating back to 1057. According to the story, a ‘bad old woman’ once lived in a now-ruined castle just outside the town.

In Catalan, mala means ‘bad’ and vella means ‘old woman’. Taken together, the name Caldes de Malavella could be loosely translated as ‘The Thermal Springs of the Evil Auld One’.

The castles of Caldes de Malavella

There were once two castles in Caldes de Malavella. The remains of the older one, Castell de Malavella, are on the hill of Sant Maurici, just over 2 km from the Roman nucleus of the town. Built in the 11th century, it was a sizeable fortress in its day, though only its ruins remain today.

Local legend tells of a ‘bad old woman’ who lived here and ruled the surrounding area through a pact with the devil. According to the story, she would retain her power as long as she ate the heart of a small child each night. Dark tales like these have long shaped the region’s folklore.

The legend continues with the arrival of Maurici, an outsider who uncovered the witch’s pact and, being immune to her spell, forced her to flee the castle forever. As the story goes, the devil kept his side of the bargain precisely as agreed, a reminder, perhaps, of the importance of reading the small print.

Caldes de Malavella still commemorates this story today. Each year, on the last Saturday of April, the town celebrates the Festa de la Malavella. The feast of Sant Maurici is marked on 22 September at the hermitage dedicated to the saint, which was later built using stones from the towers of the ruined castle.

Within the town itself, traces of the second castle can still be seen at Puig de Sant Grau, where sections of the old town walls and three circular towers remain. This area formed part of the Roman nucleus of Caldes and was also the site of the original Roman baths. The Castell de Caldes once stood here and is first documented in 1362, when the Bishop of Girona visited the town to take the waters.

Built directly over the ancient baths, the castle became a symbol of feudal power within the Barony of Llagostera. At the time, the baths were not accessible to the public, but in later centuries, they were used as a hospice, valued for their curative properties.

During the 20th century, several archaeological excavations were carried out at the site. When it became clear that exposure was causing deterioration, a protective structure was added. Today, a four-sided roof of wood and glass, supported by metal pillars, shields the most delicate remains while leaving the centre open to natural light.

Beyond the castles, Caldes is also home to the Romanesque Church of Sant Esteve. Originally built in the 11th century, it was extensively remodelled in the 17th and 18th centuries and remains an important landmark in the town’s historic centre.

Well-connected

Caldes de Malavella lies within the Selva Depression, an ancient tectonic basin shaped by major faults and volcanic activity. It also sits on the route of the historic ‘Via Augusta’, the longest Roman road on the Iberian Peninsula, which once stretched from Narbonne to Cádiz, with a branch leading to the important port of Cartagena.

Archaeological excavations show that the area was inhabited long before the Romans arrived. In the centuries that followed, various civilisations passed through, each leaving traces behind. Unlike many Roman settlements founded for military or strategic reasons, Aquae Calidae developed primarily as a place of health and leisure. Visitors came to bathe in the thermal waters, believed to have healing properties, and its location along the Via Augusta made it a natural stopping point for travellers.

Caldes de Malavella has therefore been well-connected since ancient times. In the Middle Ages, it became a crossroads of several ‘Caminos Reales’, or royal roads, linking Barcelona and Girona and providing access towards the Costa Brava. Today, Girona–Costa Brava Airport, opened in 1967, lies nearby, and the town remains well served by rail on the line between Girona and Barcelona.

The railway station

Caldes de Malavella railway station was inaugurated in 1862 and reflects the typical 19th-century architectural style, with its symmetrical cornices and windows. It quickly became an essential addition to the town, bringing visitors who came for the thermal springs and the easy access to the nearby beaches on La Costa Brava.

During World War II, the station took on a more strategic role. In the first months of 1944, over a thousand Italian navy soldiers passed through Caldes and were held in the town. Following the ousting of Mussolini in October 1943, Italy switched sides and declared war on Germany, its former ally. Although Franco’s Spain was officially neutral, it largely favoured the Axis powers, partly due to their support during the Spanish Civil War.

As a result, the Italian soldiers, now considered enemies of the Third Reich and, by extension, of Franco’s regime, were detained for a time. In April 1944, some attempted to escape on a freight train but were caught and sent to the concentration camp in Miranda de Ebro, Burgos. This camp was one of several established under Franco and was the last to close, in 1947.

The remaining Italians were eventually returned to Italy on a 30-carriage train that departed from Caldes de Malavella station two months later. From November 1944 until the end of the war, and for a short time afterwards, Nazi agents also travelled through Caldes by rail, staying in the town’s spa hotels, chalets and villas. World War II was a complicated period in what locals still refer to as ‘The Thermal Springs of the Evil Auld One’.

Today, rail travel through Caldes is far more straightforward. Although international trains to France do not stop here, Girona is just a 15-minute journey away, where AVE and TGV services connect to Paris, Lyon and Marseille. Trains heading south to Barcelona and beyond run regularly, with journey times of around 70–75 minutes.

Walking and cycling trails

In addition to its road and rail connections, Caldes de Malavella is an excellent base for walking and cycling in the open countryside. Cyclists may already be familiar with the Vies Verdes, the network of former railway lines converted into traffic-free cycling and walking routes across the region.

The Vies Verdes form part of a larger circular route known as the Pirinexus, which runs from Sant Feliu de Guíxols north into the French Pyrenees and back again. Several branches link off the main Pirinexus route, one of which, connected to the Carrilet II section, is known as the Thermal Greenway and leads directly to Caldes de Malavella.

The routes are equally suitable for walkers, and beyond the greenways, there is an extensive network of signposted hiking trails around the town, totalling around 150 kilometres. The municipality covers 56 km² and is characterised by forests of oak, cork oak, holm oak and pine, with routes suitable for all fitness levels.

For a gentle walk close to town, you can stroll out to the ruins of the Castell de Malavella, traditionally associated with the legend of the Evil Auld One. From there, the route continues past the volcanic crater of Camp dels Ninots, known for its opal deposits, and through the Bosc Terapèutic on the return to town. The full loop takes around 90 minutes at an easy pace.

Golf & wellness

Also nearby is Camiral Golf & Wellness Resort, located just over 4 km from Caldes de Malavella. Its ‘Stadium Course’ regularly hosts European Tour events and is widely regarded as one of Spain’s leading golf resorts.

As the name suggests, the focus here extends well beyond golf. Alongside two championship courses, the resort includes a five-star hotel, a wellness centre, a wide range of activities, and several restaurants offering refined local cuisine and fine dining.

Gastronomy

After time spent outdoors, you will likely have worked up an appetite. Local ‘Caldenc’ gastronomy is rooted in traditional Catalan cooking, with a distinctive twist: the use of thermal water as a native ingredient. This mineral-rich water is used to enhance flavours while highlighting its reputed health benefits.

As a result, local cuisine is often referred to as ‘thermal cuisine’. You will find a good selection of restaurants in and around the town, as well as more refined dining options within the nearby spa resorts.

Spas

The thermal springs of Caldes de Malavella have been known since antiquity, but it was during the 19th century that the town truly developed into a spa destination. At that time, the first modern spa resorts were established, bringing economic growth and attracting visitors, many of them affluent families from Barcelona who built elegant villas and summer residences.

Today, Caldes is home to several spa and wellness centres offering a wide range of hydrothermal treatments. Facilities typically include thermal pools, saunas, inhalations, pressure and horizontal showers, massages, lymphatic drainage, and beauty and wellness therapies, all designed for relaxation and restoration.

The thermal springs that made it all possible emerge from three hills: El Puig de les Ànimes, El Puig de Sant Grau and El Puig de les Moleres. The first modern bathhouse, Balneari Prats, opened in 1840. The best-known spa facilities associated with Vichy Catalan followed in 1898, the same year that FC Palamós, the oldest football club in Catalunya, was founded.

The bottling of mineral water for drinking also began in the 19th century and expanded significantly during the 1930s. Today, Caldes de Malavella is closely associated with its mineral waters, with three historic brands originating in the town: San Narciso, Vichy Catalan and Agua Malavella.

Caldes during wartime

The spa resorts of Caldes de Malavella also played an unexpected role during periods of conflict. In December 1937, during the Spanish Civil War, the Vichy Catalan spa was converted into the ‘Girona District Military Clinic No. 2’. Despite a maximum capacity of 800, it treated more than 1,000 wounded soldiers.

During the Second World War, Caldes again became a place of refuge. Jewish refugees of various nationalities, mostly women and children who had crossed into Spain via the Pyrenees, were temporarily sheltered in the spa hotels. Later, when Italian naval personnel were transferred to the town, these refugees were moved elsewhere.

After the war, the spa facilities were briefly used to house former Axis personnel. Maintenance costs were formally the responsibility of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, although payments were reportedly irregular, leaving local administrators to cover the shortfall.

Balneari Prats also accommodated refugees and Italian sailors during this period. In late 1944, a high-ranking German intelligence officer stayed there while recovering from war injuries. He later returned with his family in peacetime, reflecting how quickly the town transitioned back to its traditional role as a place of rest and recovery.

Caldes de Malavella today

Today, Caldes de Malavella is a calm and understated town with a strong sense of continuity. For some, it serves as a practical commuter base on the railway line between Girona and Barcelona. For others, it is valued for its access to golf courses, walking and cycling routes, and the surrounding countryside.

Above all, Caldes remains closely associated with wellbeing. Its spa resorts continue a tradition of relaxation and recuperation that stretches back to Roman times, offering a slower rhythm of life just inland from the Costa Brava.