Roman Roots of Charcutería
Long before refrigeration, the Romans introduced meat preservation techniques across their empire. In France, these methods were gradually refined into a true culinary craft, laying the foundations of what we now know as charcutería. The term comes from the French ‘charcuterie’, derived from ‘chair cuite’, meaning cooked meat. From there, it evolved into ‘charcutería’ in Spanish and ‘xarcuteria’ in Catalan. At the time, pork was the main meat used for curing, which meant these techniques were most widely adopted in Christian regions of the Roman world, rather than in Jewish or Muslim territories.
Today, ‘charcutería’ also includes beef, game, poultry and even fish, but in Spain, pork remains at the heart of the tradition.
One Animal, Endless Flavours
There are two main categories of ‘charcutería’: raw-cured and cooked-cured. Pork is the most commonly used meat, but the variety across Spain is remarkable. Different pig breeds, diets, rearing methods and regions all influence flavour, texture and quality.
Many charcutería products are closely linked to their place of origin, much as wines are with Denominación de Origen. Let’s take a closer look at some of the most well-known varieties.
Jamón Serrano
The traditional way to preserve ham was to salt it first, then let it hang to cure in the cool, dry mountain air. This method gave rise to the name ‘jamón serrano’, literally meaning mountain-cured ham.
Nowadays, the term is more specific, referring to cured ham from a particular species of ‘white’ pigs that meet the requirements of the ETG (‘Especialidad Tradicional Garantizada’) label, guaranteeing its quality. Hams must be cured for a minimum of seven months, but some of the larger hams are cured for much longer. The level of quality of hams can also differ depending on the origin, the species of pig, and its diet, as well as the method of slaughter.
Some regions are particularly renowned for their hams and bear labels displaying their superior quality, usually including the name of the region, as opposed to the general ETG ‘serrano’ ham label. A couple of examples include: Denominación de Origen Protegida (DOP) Jamón de Teruel from Aragón, and Indicación Geográfica Protegida (IGP) Jamón de Trévelez from the Sierra de la Alpujarra near Granada in Andalucía.
Jamón Ibérico
Tasty and all as it may be, ‘Jamón Serrano’ is definitely the poor relation when compared to ‘Jamón Ibérico’; you’ve guessed it, Iberian Ham! The main difference between this ham and the ‘serrano’ variety is that it comes from the ‘pata negra’ (black-hoofed) Iberian pig species, native to western Spain and Portugal, which is generally believed to have evolved from cross-breeding between domestic pigs and wild boar many centuries ago.
So, ‘pata negra’ ham should come from black-hoofed Iberian pigs that have been fed on acorns, at least during the last few months of their lives, giving the ham a somewhat nutty flavour. However, other non-Iberian pig breeds are also black-hoofed, and some producers crossbreed them with Iberian pigs. The term ‘inferior’ refers to classification rather than value, indicating that the meat is considered of a lower culinary grade.
To be sure of the crème de la crème when it comes to Spanish ham, look out for the top-of-the-range ‘Jamón Ibérico de Bellota’, which is produced from guaranteed 100% pure Iberian black pigs that were allowed to roam virtually free in oak forests, eating almost nothing but acorns, giving the resulting ham an even nuttier flavour and even more delicate texture. (‘Bellota’ is the Spanish word for acorn.) This ham is more expensive, but if you appreciate the finer things in life, it’s worth every cent! Two of the best-known brands are Joselito and Montesierra.
So what’s Paletilla?
That’s simple! ‘Jamón’ comes from the back legs of the pig, and ‘paletilla’ comes from the forelegs. The rear legs are bigger and have less fat than the forelegs, and as for which is better, that’s purely a matter of personal taste.
Chorizo
One of Spain’s most famous exports is surely the red, mildly spicy sausage known worldwide as chorizo. In Catalan, the pronunciation is similar, but it is spelt ‘xoriço’. It is made from minced pork meat and flavoured with garlic, salt and ‘pimentón’ (a smoked paprika, a ground spice made from dried red capsicum, which gives the chorizo its characteristic colour).
Chorizo varies hugely depending on the region and producer, as the ‘pimentón’ used can range from spicy to sweet, and other herbs and spices may be added. It can be eaten as is, typically with cheese and bread, or cooked and used in a variety of recipes. You won’t find anything much more Spanish than chorizo!
And Chistorra?
They are basically mini chorizo sausages that are typically eaten along with fried eggs and potatoes in a dish called ‘huevos rotos’ (literally, broken eggs)
Sobrassada
Typically from the Balearic Islands, especially Mallorca, ‘sobrassada’ is like a spreadable version of chorizo. It is similar in flavour but, rather than being eaten as a sausage, it is usually spread onto a slice of bread, often with honey. If you think that sounds like a strange combination, don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!
Salchichón and Fuet
The ‘Salchichón’ originated in these lands with the Romans, but Spain is now one of the world’s biggest producers. It is produced in much the same way as chorizo, except that rather than red paprika, ground black pepper is used. This gives the ‘salchichón’ a pinkish colour. Again, there are wide varieties; the most common here in Catalunya is a long, thin sausage called ‘fuet’, which would be comparable to Italian salami or to saucisson sec in France.
Morcilla
It is a traditional Spanish blood sausage found all over the country, though the exact ingredients vary from region to region and even from kitchen to kitchen. The most common versions mix pork blood with rice, fat, and onions, with additional ingredients such as pine nuts, almonds, garlic, ‘pimentón’, breadcrumbs, or even mashed potatoes, depending on the region. It can be eaten cold, sliced onto bread as a tapa, or it can be cooked, usually fried, or pretty much any way you like!
Botifarra
And so to some very Catalan ‘xarcutería’. Botifarra is effectively Catalunya’s version of ‘morcilla’, but here there is a white ‘botifarra blanca’ as well as the black variety that is more common in the rest of Spain. In fact, botifarra blanca is the more typical in Catalunya, and if you ask for ‘botifarra’, it is usually assumed that you mean the white version. No blood is used in preparing the white variety, which accounts for the difference in colour.
Lomo Embuchado
‘Lomo embuchado’, or simply ‘lomo’, is dry-cured pork tenderloin that is cured pretty much as it is, except for some salt and a little paprika dusted on its exterior and then wrapped to cure for around two months, thus retaining all the pure flavour of the pork meat.
Lomo Embuchado Iberico de Bellota
As with jamón, so it is with lomo! If you want the very best of lomo, then ask for Lomo Embuchado Iberico de Bellota, the top-of-the-line variety that comes from pigs fed almost exclusively on acorns. It has a richer colour and more marbling than regular lomo, and then there’s that delicious nutty taste again! It is eaten very thinly sliced, allowing the flavour to just melt in your mouth.
Where to buy your ‘Charcutería’?
As with just about anything these days, you can buy most, if not all, of the above in your local supermarket, but if you want to be assured of the best quality, we’d suggest you buy your ‘xarcutería’ from your local butcher. Carnissers & Xarcuters Arnall are located in Platja d’Aro, S’Agaró. Sant Antoni de Calonge, Palamós, Torroella de Montgrí and Palafrugell, but any decent local butcher will be able to look after all your ‘xarcutería’ needs.