The cured meats, or charcutería, of Spain rank very highly among the many culinary delights of this country, and this is no surprise as they have developed and evolved over many centuries to become an integral part of Spanish cuisine.
What have the Romans ever done for us?
What have the Romans ever done for us? Well, back in the day, long before refrigeration, the Romans introduced their methods of preserving meat to the far reaches of their empire, and in France, in particular, these methods were refined into a culinary art. And it is in France that the term charcutería has its origins. The French word charcuterie derives from “chair cuite”, which means “cooked meat” or “cooked flesh”, and this then became charcutería in Spanish and xarcutería in Catalan.
Of course, when we say throughout “the Roman Empire”, we should probably qualify that by saying throughout “Roman Christendom” as the meat mainly used for curing was that of the pig and so not quite as wildly popular in the Jewish and Muslim parts of their territory. Nowadays though, the art of charcutería has evolved to include beef, game, poultry and even fish – but in Spain pork remains the king!
A wonderful, magical animal!
There are two main categories of charcutería: raw and cured, or cooked and cured. As we said, pork is the main meat used, but there is such a huge range of varieties across the country, with each region having its own specialties, that it’s sometimes hard to believe they all come from the same “wonderful magical animal”. Just ask Homer Simpson!
Strictly speaking though, they don’t come from exactly the same animal, but rather from different species of pig – and the species of pig, its diet, how it is reared, and where, make all the difference. Many types of charcutería bear the name of their place of origin, like the Denominación de Origen for wines and other products, so let’s take a look at some of the most well-known from around the country.
We’ll begin with probably the most ubiquitous of the lot: Jamón (ham)
Jamón Serrano
The old way of preserving ham was to cover it with salt for a time and then let it hang to cure in the cool and dry mountain air, giving rise to the name jamón serrano; “jamón” being ham, and “serrano” meaning “mountainous”, or “of the mountains” (sierra = mountain range, as in Sierra Nevada, or “Snowy Mountains”).
Nowadays the term is more specific as it refers to cured ham from certain species of “white” pig and which meets the requirements of the ETG (Especialidad Tradicional Garantizada) label, guaranteeing its quality. Hams must be cured for a minimum of seven months but some of the larger hams are cured for much longer. The level of quality of hams can also differ depending on the origin, the species of pig, and its diet as well as the method of slaughter.
Some regions are particularly renowned for their hams and bear labels displaying their superior quality, usually including the name of the region, as opposed to the general ETG serrano ham label. A couple of examples include: Denominación de Origen Protegida (DOP) Jamón de Teruel from Aragón, and Indicación Geográfica Protegida (IGP) Jamón de Trévelez from the Sierra de la Alpujarra near Granada in Andalucía.
Jamón Ibérico
Tasty and all as it may be, Jamón Serrano is definitely the poor relation when compared to Jamón Ibérico; you’ve guessed it, Iberian Ham! The main difference between this ham and the serrano variety is that it comes from the pata negra (black-hoofed) Iberian pig species, native to western Spain and Portugal that, it is generally believed, evolved from cross-breeding between domestic pigs and wild boar many centuries ago.
So, pata negra ham should come from black-hoofed Iberian pigs that have been fed on acorns, at least during the last few months of their lives, giving the ham a somewhat nutty flavour. However, there are other species of non-Iberian pigs that are also black-hoofed and some producers cross-breed these inferior species with Iberian pigs. (We’re not really calling those pigs “inferior” as that wouldn’t be very nice; it’s just that their meat is not considered to be of the same quality.)
In order to be sure of the crème de la crème when it comes to Spanish ham, look out for the top of the range Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, which is produced from guaranteed 100% pure Iberian black pigs that were allowed to roam virtually free in oak forests, eating almost nothing but acorns, giving the resulting ham an even nuttier flavour and even more delicate texture. (Bellota is the Spanish word for acorn.) This ham is more expensive but, if you appreciate the finer things in life, it’s worth every cent! Two of the best-known brands are Joselito and Montesierra.
So what’s Paletilla?
That’s simple! Jamón comes from the back legs of the pig and paletilla comes from the forelegs. The rear legs are bigger and have less fat than the forelegs, and as for which is better, that’s purely a matter of personal taste.
Chorizo
One of Spain’s most famous exports is surely the red, mildly spicy sausage known the world over as chorizo. In Catalan the pronunciation is similar but it is spelt xoriço. It is made from minced pork meat and flavoured with garlic, salt and pimentón, (a smoked paprika, which is a ground spice made from dried red capsicum, giving the chorizo its characteristic colour).
Chorizo varies hugely depending on the region and also the producer as the pimentón used can range from spicy to sweet, and other herbs and spices may also be added. It can either be eaten as is, typically along with cheese and bread, or it can be cooked and used in a variety of recipes. You won’t find anything much more Spanish than chorizo!
And Chistorra?
Chistorras are basically mini chorizo sausages that are typically eaten along with fried eggs and potatoes in a dish called huevos rotos, (literally, “broken eggs”)
Sobrassada
Typically from the Balearic Islands, especially Mallorca, sobrassada is like a spreadable version of chorizo. It is similar in flavour but, rather than being eaten in the form of a sausage, it is usually spread onto a slice of bread, often with honey. If you think that sounds like a strange combination, don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!
Salchichón and Fuet
Salchichón originally came to these lands with the Romans but Spain has now become one of the world’s biggest producers. It is produced in much the same way as chorizo except that, rather than the red paprika spice, ground black pepper is used instead. This gives the salchichón a pinkish colour. Again, there are many different varieties, the most common here in Catalunya being a long thin sausage called fuet, which would be comparable to Italian salami or saucisson sec in France.
Morcilla
Morcilla is a traditional Spanish blood sausage that can be found all over the country, although the exact ingredients vary from region to region, and even from kitchen to kitchen. The most common versions mix pork blood with rice, fat and onions with additional ingredients such as pine nuts, almonds, garlic, pimentón, breadcrumbs, or even mashed potato being added, depending on the region. It can be eaten cold, sliced onto bread as a tapa, or it can be cooked, usually fried, or pretty much whatever way you like!
Botifarra
And so to some very Catalan xarcutería. Botifarra is effectively Catalunya’s version of morcilla, but here there is a “white” botifarra blanca as well as the black variety that is more common in the rest of Spain. In fact, botifarra blanca is the more typical in Catalunya and if you ask for botifarra it is usually assumed that you mean the white version. There is no blood used in preparing the white variety, thus accounting for the difference in colour.
Lomo Embuchado
Lomo embuchado, or simply lomo, is dry-cured pork tenderloin that is cured pretty much as it is except for some salt and a little paprika dusted on its exterior and then wrapped to cure for around two months, thus retaining all the pure flavour of the pork meat.
Lomo Embuchado Iberico de Bellota
As is the case with jamón, so it is with lomo! If you want the very best of lomo, then ask for Lomo Embuchado Iberico de Bellota, the top-of-the-line variety that comes from pigs fed almost exclusively on acorns. It has a richer colour and more marbling than regular lomo, and then there’s that delicious nutty taste again! It is eaten very thinly sliced, allowing the flavour to just melt in your mouth.
Where to buy your Charcutería?
As with just about anything these days, you can buy most, if not all, of the above in your local supermarket, but if you want to be assured of the best quality we’d suggest you buy your xarcutería from your local butcher. Carnissers & Xarcuters Arnall have stores all over “callCarlos territory”, in Platja d’Aro, S’Agaró. Sant Antoni de Calonge, Palamós, Torroella de Montgrí and Palafrugell, but any decent local butcher will be able to look after all your xarcutería needs.
