A port in the name
A small fishing settlement grew near Sant Martí d’Empúries in the second half of the 15th century, supported by growing maritime trade. From the 16th century, written records describe L’Escala as a fishing and coastal trading port that still depended on neighbouring Empúries.
Its name comes from the Latin word scala, a term used around the Mediterranean for a port or landing place where boats could find shelter.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, the balance gradually shifted in L’Escala’s favour. Residents were given permission to build their own church, and in 1766 L’Escala gained village status and became the administrative centre of the municipality.
The population grew rapidly, from 390 residents in 1718 to 1,383 in 1787. People arrived from across the region, drawn by work connected with the salt warehouse, fishing, boatbuilding, anchovy and sardine salting, rice cultivation, vineyards and the export of wine.
L’Escala anchovies and salt
L’Escala’s connection with anchovies and salt stretches back centuries. In 1789, traveller and lawyer Francisco de Zamora described a town with a thriving fishing and anchovy trade, good wages and little poverty. He also noted that women took care of the anchovies in a local salting house. His account shows that the town’s salting tradition was already firmly established by the late 18th century.
The Alfolí de la Sal played a different but closely related role. Documented as a salt warehouse from 1716, it stored salt brought by sea from the Alfacs, Ibiza and Torrevieja. From L’Escala, the salt was distributed to more than 200 towns across the Empordà and neighbouring inland regions.
After the royal salt monopoly ended in 1869, the building was used by businesses connected with fish salting and wine production. It later became home to fishing associations including La Pescadora and the Pòsit de Pescadors.
Economic prosperity continued into the early 20th century, accompanied by lively political and cultural activity. Local associations supported theatre, sardana music and literary events such as the Floral Games. The Spanish Civil War and the dictatorship that followed brought this chapter to an abrupt end. Towards the end of the war, L’Escala was bombed by Italian fascist aircraft, killing twenty civilians.
Fishing and vineyards remained important during the post-war decades. From the 1960s, tourism transformed the local economy, creating new work in construction and services as many smaller industries gradually disappeared. The fishing sector later regained momentum, while the traditional production of L’Escala anchovies developed the reputation it retains today.
Restored and reopened in 2017, the Alfolí now houses the Museu de l’Escala, its historical archive and the permanent exhibition L’Escala and the Sea of Empúries. The town continues to celebrate its maritime heritage through the Festa de la Sal and the annual Anchovy Festival.
L’Escala is well worth exploring beyond its maritime history. Alongside Empúries and Sant Martí, you’ll find excellent beaches, inviting xiringuitos and plenty of bars and restaurants. It works equally well as a day trip or a weekend destination, and coastal walkers can include L’Escala and Empúries on their Camino de Ronda route.