The old town beneath Montgrí

The historic centre of Torroella de Montgrí remains compact, walkable and very much lived in. Around Plaça de la Vila and the surrounding streets, medieval façades sit beside bakeries, cafés and local shops that still serve the town beyond the tourist season.

Unlike some smaller coastal villages on La Costa Brava, Torroella feels less focused on summer alone. The municipality has always been tied to agriculture, trade and its position between the interior and the sea. That mix still gives the town a more grounded rhythm throughout the year.

The weekly Monday market continues to fill the centre with fruit stalls, clothing stands and local produce, while shaded terraces slowly fill towards lunchtime, particularly during spring and autumn.

Castell del Montgrí above the plain

Looking down over the entire region is Castell del Montgrí, the unfinished 13th-century fortress built during disputes between the counts of Empúries and Barcelona. Sitting high above the limestone massif, the castle remains visible from much of the surrounding plain.

The walk up from Torroella takes around an hour, climbing steadily through dry Mediterranean landscape filled with pine, rosemary and low stone paths. From the top, the views stretch across the Empordà towards the Medes Islands, the Bay of Roses and, on clear days, the Pyrenees.

Despite its dominant position, the castle itself remains surprisingly bare inside. The experience is less about entering a monument and more about understanding the geography around it, river, plain, mountains and coastline all meeting below.

From Torroella to L’Estartit

A few kilometres east, the landscape changes completely as the municipality reaches the coast at L’Estartit. Here, fishing boats, diving centres and long sandy beaches replace the inland streets of Torroella.

Offshore lie the Medes Islands, one of the best-known marine reserves in the Mediterranean. The protected waters around the islands attract divers from across Europe, while boat trips and kayak routes operate throughout the warmer months.

The coastline around Torroella and L’Estartit recently renewed its Green Destinations Golden Award, recognising ongoing work around sustainability, nature management and responsible tourism.

For walkers, the Camí de Ronda links beaches, pine forests and sections of the River Ter landscape along this stretch of coast. The route around Cap de la Barra remains one of the quieter sections of the Costa Brava path network outside peak summer.

Museums, music and local traditions

Torroella has long held an important place in the cultural life of the Empordà. The Museu de la Mediterrània explores the relationship between the region and the wider Mediterranean world through music, landscape, fishing traditions and local history.

Nearby, Palau Solterra adds a more contemporary layer to the town’s cultural scene. The 15th-century palace hosts photography exhibitions by local and international artists throughout the year, combining historic architecture with modern visual art.

Music also remains closely tied to the town. During summer, the Festival de Torroella brings classical concerts and international musicians to churches, courtyards and historic spaces around the centre.

Alongside larger events, local traditions continue throughout the year with sardanes, Festa Major celebrations and smaller cultural activities linked to the surrounding villages and coastline.

Lunches and market life

Food in Torroella reflects both the inland Empordà and the nearby sea. Rice dishes, grilled meats, local vegetables and fresh fish all appear across restaurant menus, often changing with the season rather than following fixed tourist formulas.

On market days, terraces around the centre slowly fill with vermut, coffees and long lunches that stretch well into the afternoon. The atmosphere is noticeably calmer outside the busiest summer weeks, particularly during spring and early autumn.

Around L’Estartit, seafood and rice dishes become more prominent, while seasonal products such as sonso and anchovies regularly appear on menus near the harbour.

A practical base for the Empordà

One of Torroella’s strengths is its location. Within a short drive, you can move between beaches, walking routes, medieval villages and natural parks without needing to cross large urban areas.

Girona is reachable in under an hour, while cycling routes around the Ter and Empordà plain connect the town with nearby villages, rice fields and coastal paths.

For visitors looking to combine coastline, nature and local town life in one place, Torroella de Montgrí quietly brings all three together.