The Costa Brava is famed for its many beautiful beaches, but if you ever feel the urge to experience something a bit more cultural and historic, this region is also dotted with numerous medieval villages just waiting to be explored.
The villages of Peratallada and Palau-Sator are often visited together due to their proximity to each other, and they are also included in multiple-day trips and excursions. A little less well-known but equally worthy of a day’s exploration are a handful of smaller medieval villages within a stone’s throw of the local capital, La Bisbal d’Empordà. There’s also Ullastret, another medieval town, which also has the impressive ruins of an ancient Iberian settlement as a bonus feature.
Having said all that, one of the loveliest of them all, and one of the most visited, has to be the incredibly picturesque and photogenic town of Pals.
Coastal town – well, almost!
Situated just a few kilometres inland from the sea, Pals is a well-preserved medieval village that dates back to at least the 7th century. Its name suggests possible ancient Roman origins as “Pals” derives from “Palus”, which meant ‘swampy place’ or ‘marshland’ in Latin. The earliest recorded documentary evidence relating to a castle with a tower dates back to the year 889, indicating that the town is at least 1135 years old.
A castle was built on the highest point of the village on a rocky hill called Mont Aspre, and so commanded views of the surrounding countryside. In 1293, the town was granted a market, a significant development at the time, and walls were built around the village during the same period to enhance its defences during local conflicts.
About a century later, the walls were further fortified, as they were in many coastal towns, for fear of the dreaded Pirates of the Mediterranean, especially those from North Africa. To this end, Pals was given a substantial loan of 40,000 solidi by King Martín of Aragón in 1401 to enlarge its walls and moats. It’s worth noting that Pals was quite a bit closer to the coast than it is now.
The town is still in the same place, obviously, but the sea has gradually retreated over 2km since about 1300, and so the pirate threat was very real back then. It originally had six towers when the castle was at its largest, and four of those towers still stand today.
The castle, the clock, and the church
In 1478, a few years after the Catalan Civil War (1462-72), the castle was dismantled at the orders of King Joan II of Aragón, although he did expressly decree that the original tower be spared. That tower today is the Torre de les Hores (Tower of the Hours), so called because it has had a clock since time immemorial. A 16th-century bell rings on every quarter of the hour, while a larger bell dating from 1701 rings on the hour. You can climb a spiral staircase to the top of the tower, and, although it costs €3, the views far into the distance in every direction from up there are pretty impressive!
There was also an Església de Sant Pere (St. Peter’s Church), recorded as far back as the 9th century, but it was severely damaged during the aforementioned Catalan Civil War. When the king ordered that the castle be dismantled, the stones were used to rebuild the church that we see today.
Pals today
Although the medieval part of the town had fallen into neglect over the centuries, it was declared a “Site of Historic Interest” in 1973. It was beautifully restored to its current condition. It makes for an njoyable hour or two strolling around and reading the history in greater depth than is possible to go into here. You can read the story of each important building in Catalan, Spanish, French, and English. When you’re done, there is a pleasant Main Square where you can sit and take in the atmosphere while enjoying a beer, coffee, or ice cream. If you’re hungry, there are several good restaurants in the town as well.
Arròs de Pals
Pals is also famous for its rice, or “Arròs de Pals”, which is renowned for its exceptionally high quality. Initially introduced by Arabs from Valencia, it is documented that cultivation of this crop began in 1452, with the exception of a period in the 19th century during which cultivation was curtailed to eradicate diseases, such as malaria, believed to be associated with the crop. The stagnant water in the rice fields attracted mosquitoes, which transmitted the disease; 1835 was a terrible year, with a very high death rate.
The rice is sown from the end of April to the beginning of May, and the paddy fields are flooded in preparation for the rice transplanting, which takes place in June. It is then harvested between the end of September and early October. There are activities to mark both occasions, known as Pals i la Cuina de l’Arròs (Pals and its Rice Cuisine), which are organised by the Ajuntament de Pals, the town’s restaurants, and the rice mills. There are guided tours of the rice fields, cookery courses and tastings, as well as visits to Moli de Pals, which dates back to 1452, making it one of the oldest rice mills in Europe.
The dates vary slightly every year, according to the sowing and harvesting seasons, naturally, but always include a series of activities such as cookery workshops, local produce markets, conferences, craft stalls, and guided visits centred on the history and traditions of the local rice culture. Participating restaurants in the town offer a menu featuring a rice stew made with local rice as its main course, naturally.
Arròs de Pals falls under the umbrella brand of “Productes de l’Empordà”, guaranteeing that the rice is produced, processed, quality-controlled, and packaged in the region. There are a few local Pals rice producers, and the best-known varieties of rice grown here are Bahia and Bomba, the most traditional, as well as Carnaroli and Nembo, which have been introduced more recently.
If you fancy going for a meal featuring one of the local speciality rice dishes of the area, we recommend trying the family-run Restaurant La Vila, right on the edge of the old town. They have a regular menú del día as well as a special rice menu, or you can, of course, just order à la carte. Whatever you choose, the food and service are always good, and they speak quite a few languages too – but it’s best to make a reservation in advance as it’s very popular indeed.
El Xiulet de Pals
If you fancy taking in more than just one medieval village in the same day, check out the Xiulet de Pals. This tourist train departs from Pals and takes you to the smaller but equally charming medieval towns of Peratallada and Palau-sator, then returns to Pals. There are also two other routes available: the Rice Route and Gothic Pals, as well as a Combined Tour, which combines the best of the three different tours. The tours are available in Catalan, Spanish, French and English, but booking ahead is advisable, especially for French or English tours.
Virtual Tour of Pals
If you can’t visit Pals in person right now, you can always take a virtual tour to get a taste of what you can expect when you do eventually make it here. The Tourist Office has put together a website where you can “wander“ around the village from the comfort of your own home, using arrows to navigate around the streets and clicking on points of interest as you go to get more detailed information. It’s not quite as cool as a real visit, but it is pretty cool!
Festa Major de Pals
Apart from the events relating to rice, each summer, the town of Pals celebrates its traditional Festa Major with a programme of concerts, workshops, and family-friendly fun. The festivities usually take place in early August, starting in the historic town centre before continuing with a beach party at Platja de Pals. A free bus service connects Pals, Els Masos, and the beach, making it easy for everyone to join in. Expect colourful parades, Holi Parties, and live music to close the celebrations in style.
A Magical Xmas
This magical time of year is packed with fun activities for everyone to NjOY! It takes place from 4 December to 5 January. The streets light up with festive decorations. One of the most thrilling moments is the visit from Their Majesties, the Three Kings, something many of us look forward to, especially the little ones who can’t wait to see them and perhaps receive a special gift. There will be a lively atmosphere, with charming local markets filled with unique handcrafted items, cheerful music, and delicious holiday treats. You can find the complete event schedule on the town’s official website to ensure you don’t miss a thing.
Beach time
If you’ve had your fill of culture and fancy a bit of beach time, you don’t have to go far, as the beautifully long and unspoilt Platja de Pals is only a 10-minute drive away. When you arrive, you’ll find a cluster of bar-restaurants and a few shops right next to the parking lot, but once you step onto the strand, there isn’t much in the way of development, and the beach itself is relatively pristine. In fact, it’s located within a conservation area, so while snorkelling and scuba diving are allowed, the noisier water sports and activities are not permitted.
A round of golf, anyone?
If you’re a golfer and want to make a full day of it, you could arrange to play around on the Golf de Pals course situated right alongside the sea! If you’ve already played there and would like a new challenge, there are plenty of other quality Costa Brava Golf Courses for you to check out as well.
The perfect day out
All in all, Pals and its surrounding area have plenty to offer and really shouldn’t be missed. Even if you don’t have a car, it’s still easily reachable by public transport. There are more buses in the peak season. However, even in the quieter months, with a bit of planning, it’s still an easy journey on the Moventis/Sarfa bus from towns such as Sant Feliu de Guíxols, Platja d’Aro, Sant Antoni de Calonge, Palamós and Palafrugell, among others.
The same bus also serves the beautiful town of Begur, which boasts a distinct charm with its colonial rather than medieval architecture. As it’s only a short distance away, you could easily visit both towns on the same excursion.
