The area around the Costa Brava town of Calonge is full of lovely walking trails that just so happen to take you by some excellent wineries. If you like country walks and appreciate fine local wines, why not indulge in both passions at once? Calonge has both!
Calonge
The town of Calonge, as we know it today, has been in existence since around the 8th century. However, numerous dolmens and menhirs in the area, such as the menhir de Puigsesforques, serve as a testament to the fact that humans have inhabited the region for possibly as long as 100,000 years. Agriculture began with the Neolithic era about 5,000 BCE, and thanks to archaeological discoveries, it is known that Iberian peoples lived in the region at least as far back as the 4th century BCE.
Calonge Castle
The Romans also had a settlement during their time here. Still, the most impressive historical building that remains today is certainly Calonge Castle, the construction of which began in the 8th century. It was one of the largest fortresses built in the Baix EmpordĂ comarca, and its original purpose was to defend against any potential Saracen raids. It was built in stages over the centuries, and although it was damaged during the War of the Remences, it was restored almost immediately.
The half-palace, half-fortress has been put to various uses throughout its history, including a theatre and a casino, but it now belongs to the Generalitat de Catalunya. Starting in 1968, the castle has hosted the Music Festival of Calonge for 50 years, making it one of the oldest festivals in Catalunya. Nowadays, it is open to the public and hosts concerts at various times throughout the year, rather than a single big festival, so keep an eye on the calendar. You never know who might show up!
Each year, Calonge hosts a Medieval Market during Easter Weekend, a fun-filled event featuring music, shows, tournaments, parades, workshops, and a craft market. There is even a horse-drawn wrestling tournament, while the Castle Gardens host a siege camp with medieval war machines, with educational and participatory shows. The castle also features a medieval dungeon, and the Gothic Hall hosts medieval music concerts. Later, the Festa Major d’Estiu de Calonge takes place in early July every year, and over the five days or so of festivities, several events, including concerts, are held on the castle grounds.
Església de Sant Martà bell tower
The residents of Calonge are very attached to their church of Sant Martà and its bell tower and clock. The tower was struck by lightning at the end of October 2022 and knocked out of action for a while, with the clock stopped at 02:15. When there was no sign of any repairs happening, a group of locals launched a campaign called “Calonge, what time is it?”, arguing that “a town without bells is a town without life”. They got their wish, and the clock and bells were repaired in February 2023. They are now back in operation, ringing every quarter of an hour, as well as in a particular manner to announce local festivities and for funerals.
Torre Valentina + Sant Antoni
As was the case with many towns of the time that were established away from the coast, Calonge is situated 4km from the sea. This was due to the fear of pirate attacks, and as these raids were so common, a watchtower was built in the 15th century on the coast – Torre Valentina – to warn of approaching pirate ships and give inhabitants time to hide themselves and their valuables.
Torre Valentina was just one of a network of towers along the coast, many of which have long since disappeared, that could signal each other so that the whole population of the region would receive a warning. Who knows, maybe that’s where Tolkien got his inspiration for the “lighting of the beacons” in “The Lord of the Rings”?
Sant Antoni de Calonge, at first glance, appears to be part of PalamĂłs rather than Calonge, as it shares the Bay of PalamĂłs and is slightly closer to the former than to the latter. However, as its name makes abundantly clear, Sant Antoni belongs to the municipality of Calonge. The combined number of residents in the two population centres is just over 11,000 nowadays. Still, because of the aforementioned pirate menace, almost nobody lived down on the coast at Sant Antoni for a long time. Today, virtually all the buildings there date from relatively recent times, and it is, for the most part, a tourist resort.
At the time of the Spanish Civil War, although Sant Antoni de Mar, as it was known then, was a separate municipality, it was promptly annexed by the Francoist Ajuntament of Calonge in 1939, as soon as the war came to an end, and there it remains to this day.
Calonge Book Town
Wine and books; what a perfect combination, right? In December 2021, Calonge announced itself as a book town by simultaneously opening six bookshops in and around the centre of Calonge, as well as another one in Sant Antoni. As of 2024, plans are in place for three additional stores in the near future. Regular events take place with books as their main theme, with all the bookshops participating – one of the conditions for the grants they received from the Ajuntament to aid in their establishment. The aim is to eventually become a fully-fledged member of the International Organisation of Booktowns – and celebrate with a bottle of local wine, naturally!
In December 2024, Calonge celebrated three years as a “Town of Books” with exhibitions, shows, workshops, book presentations, story readings, talks, popular activities, and even a live writing jam session. From 12 April 2025, preparations for Sant Jordi’s Day (23 April) with a whole range of events right up to Saturday, 26 April. In case you were wondering, 23 April is both Catalan Book Day and UNESCO World Book Day, which is why there are events!
Les Gavarres
Calonge is surrounded on almost all sides by the Gavarres Massif, forming a natural amphitheatre. These hills, with their numerous streams and miradores (lookout points) offering vistas all the way down to the Mediterranean, make for a beautiful day’s walking, hiking, and cycling on their many trails. In total, the Gavarres Massif covers an area of over 350km², and its highest hill stands at 533m above sea level.
It contains only three small villages with a permanent population: Sant Mateu de Montnegre de Quart, Sant Pol de la Bisbal, and Romanyà de la Selva, as well as about fifty inhabited farmhouses. Les Gavarres are also home to some of the finest forests of cork oak in Catalunya, which is a good thing because also “hidden” amongst the hills are a number of wineries that produce quality-controlled local Denominación de Origen (D.O.) wine; in this case, D.O. Empordà .
The plentiful walking trails in the Gavarres are very popular with hikers, and if you’re a wine lover as well, why not combine a beautiful stroll in the hills and forests with a visit to a local winery or two? Or a few…
The Wineries
Calonge is a true paradise for wine lovers, with such a wide variety that one can truly discover everything wine has to offer. Calonge is located in the Empordà , a controlled and protected Denominación de Origen (D.O.) or “designation of origin,” which covers approximately 2,000 hectares and is divided into the Alt Empordà and Baix Empordà . While there are more and better-known wineries in the Alt Empordà region, the Baix Empordà also has its fair share of quality wines, and the region around Calonge is right up there with the best of them.
There are two styles of wine made. One is the traditional vi de pagés (farm wine), which are beautiful, naturally made wines produced without the addition of yeast cultures or the use of other additives. These are very pure wines that taste remarkably similar to how they must have tasted long ago. Nice examples are Mas Molla with its 700 years of history and Mas Ponsjoan.
The other type of wine is the D.O. (DenominaciĂłn de Origen) wine, which is quality-controlled. These are wines made according to the rules of the D.O., meaning, among other things, that they must be made from prescribed grape varieties with a maximum yield per hectare, specified maturation times, possibly in oak barrels, and so on.
Here are 5 of the best of both types!
Celler Mas Eugeni
The Celler Mas Eugeni winery is located in Sant Antoni de Calonge, specifically in an area called Fondils, which gives its name to their wines. Vineyards have been cultivated here for a very long time due to the ideal location, near the sea and beside a stream, surrounded by forest and fields of stony soil, which is poor for animal fodder but ideal for a vineyard. In 1995, Mas Eugeni initiated a continuous process of uprooting old vines and replanting them with noble varieties, such as Grenache, and later added Syrah and Merlot for their tannic potency.
Organised guided tours of their winery and vineyards of the estate, with wine tasting, are by prior reservation only. In their own words: “To arrange a day and time, you can contact us by email. The standard visit begins with a walk through the vineyards, where we explain the work we do there. Then we visit the winery, where we will show you how we make the wine, and conclude with a tasting of our wines in the farmhouse. The visit lasts approximately one hour and its price is €5 per adult”.
Celler VinĂric
Again, to use the vineyard’s own words: “At VinĂric, we apply a wealth of knowledge: from the traditional, like monitoring lunar phases and using natural fertilisers, to the most innovative techniques such as cold fermentation and inerting systems. Evolution and experimentation. That is the style of VinĂric. Currently, they cultivate 8 hectares and are preparing an additional 4 hectares for future planting. The indigenous varieties of red and white Grenache take centre stage, alongside Xarel·lo, Macabeu, Monastrell, Syrah, and the local Ull de Llebre (also known as Tempranillo).”
Their wines are 100% estate-grown, with no blending, clarification or stabilisation – only their best wines make it into the bottle.
Two wines from Celler VinĂric have been awarded the Girona Excel·lent agri-food quality seal 2025. They are the Propòsit Blanc (a blend of white Garnacha and Malvasia with a light step by the bota) and the Eterna Bellesa (a sweet wine made from Muscat and Malvasia). The good work is rewarded!
VinĂric offers three enotourism options, all of which must be booked in advance via their online form. Choose a 90-minute “Siglo de Resistencia AgrĂcola” vineyard walk with tasting for €20, a seated “Descubriendo VinĂric” tasting for €18, or the premium “7 Vinos 7 OrĂgenes” flight for €15. All tastings include a sample of their estate-produced olive oil.
👉 Reservations required through www.viniric.cat
Mas Ponsjoan
This family-owned winery in Calonge is one of the oldest in the area, with vineyards dating back to the 17th century. In 2023, they marked 300 years of wine production. Located in the Tinar basin between the Gavarres hills and the charming village of Calonge, the original farmhouse was built in 1668 and first served as a tavern selling wine from the vineyards to travellers and, according to local legend, even to bandits. Over the centuries, extensions were added before a full renovation in 1986.
From 1989 to 2005, further works expanded the estate with additional fields. Today, 20 hectares of native grape varieties are cultivated alongside olive trees, fruit trees, and vegetables. Mas Ponsjoan produces high-quality wine and olive oil, along with jams and preserves, following traditional methods.
The estate has been in the same family for six generations. Their philosophy is to minimise environmental impact by respecting the integrity of the soil, managing fertility and crop protection naturally, reducing waste, reusing containers, and avoiding plastics and fossil fuels. Only organic matter from crushed pruning remains is used as fertiliser – no chemicals.
If you are looking for wine tasting on the Costa Brava, Mas Ponsjoan offers guided tours throughout the year (except Sundays). During harvest season, visitors can experience the winemaking process firsthand. Advance booking is required to secure your spot.
Mas Molla
At Mas Molla, they take great pride in the fact that they have been farming in virtually the same traditional way since 1338, passed down from generation to generation of the same Molla family. They sell their wine year-round, and in the summer, they also sell dry fruit. They also offer guided wine tours in Catalan, Spanish, and English every month, except September, during harvest time. Booking is required, and the availability of tours in English is subject to demand.
Saving the best till last?
Clos d’Agon
The story of today’s Clos d’Agon winery begins in 1987 when a French couple, les Dambois, purchased the estate. Les Dambois pulled up the existing old and poor-quality vines and replaced them with superior French varieties to turn the vineyard around and focus on producing high-quality wines. For the red wines, they predominantly selected Bordeaux varieties, while for the whites, they opted for vines native to the Rhône Valley. And so the Clos d’Agon brand was created.
In 1998, Les Dambois sold the estate to six friends and wine lovers from Switzerland – four of whom remain involved in the business today. The new owners brought in another friend and renowned oenologist, who is still with them today, and increased the plantation area by 8 hectares, planting areas in the higher parts of the estate that had fallen out of use. In 2006, they completed the construction of a modern winery building adjacent to the old farmhouse, situated in the centre of the estate, overlooking the sea.
A marked style and distinct quality characterise their wines. Their unique varieties, previously non-existent in the area, are cultivated in harmony with the Mediterranean environment, with the sea only 3km away and the forest of Les Gavarres forming an amphitheatre that almost surrounds the vineyard. The soils are composed of clays and loams in the lower areas of the farm and slate in the upper parts. Clos d’Agon wines are widely recognised worldwide and score highly in reference guides.
While there aren’t regularly scheduled visits to the Clos d’Agon vineyard, as they are usually too busy producing wine for us to enjoy, it is possible to arrange a guided visit by contacting them directly and inquiring about available visiting times. Mid-August to mid-October is harvest time, though, so there’s no point even asking then!
This top rosé has been one of the finest rosés in Spain for some time now, and in recent years it has consistently been rated the best in all of Catalunya.
Walking and Wining
In case you fancy the idea of combining a country walk with some wine tasting, we’ve put together a suggested itinerary that takes in the wineries mentioned above. With some planning and reservation, you may be able to fit in two or three bodega visits without even feeling guilty, as you’ll have earned them!
The itinerary was created using the Wikiloc app, which enables users to upload routes they have walked as suggestions for others to follow. You can view our itinerary by clicking here and follow it while walking by downloading it to your smartphone.
Festa Major de St MartĂ i Festa del Vi Nou
If you happen to find yourself in Calonge in November, be sure to check out the Festa del Vi Nou (New Wine Festival), which coincides with the feast of Sant MartĂ. It typically takes place in mid-November and lasts for approximately 10 days. There are many activities, including ones for kids, as part of the Festa Major de Sant MartĂ. However, the Festa del Vi Nou part focuses on wine tastings and tours at the aforementioned wineries, which include a walking tour, a wine market, and exhibitions.
Wine Interpretative Centre
Soon, you won’t have to wait for the Festa Major de St Martà i Festa del Vi Nou for exhibitions, as a new Wine Interpretation Centre is being built in the old Convent of the Carmelite Sisters on Carrer Major. The centre will promote wine tourism and celebrate the town’s wine tradition, thanks to an investment of 2.3 MEUR. When completed (in autumn 2024), it will host exhibitions, concerts, and dinners and have a roof terrace offering views of the castle and the old town of Calonge. There will also be a dedicated gastronomic and oenological space featuring tasting rooms, culinary workshops, and a bar with an additional terrace on the upper floor.
Where to buy
You can buy many of the above wines in local shops and supermarkets, but for a booze-shopping experience like no other, head for Vins i Licors Grau on the outskirts of Palafrugell! They stock the largest assortment of EmpordĂ wines, as well as wines from around the world. In addition, they have just about any spirit you might be looking for.
So, wine lovers, what are you waiting for?
