One of the greatest joys of life on La Costa Brava during the summer months is surely having a drink or a bite to eat in those lovely open-air beach bars known as xiringuitos. But did you know, the word “chiringuito” originated on 19th-century sugar-cane plantations in Cuba?
The first chiringuitos
When the sugar cane workers stopped for a break, they would typically have a coffee drink they called a chiringo, the diminutive of which is chiringuito. They would erect a basic structure with the long sugar canes as poles and use the leaves to fashion a simple roof to provide shelter from the baking sun. Over time, the word chiringuito came to mean a type of basic outdoor bar.
Well, that’s one story anyway… Another version claims that today’s beach bars take their name from a drinks kiosk that was once to be found on Passeig de Colom at the end of Las Ramblas in Barcelona city, and that the word “chiringuito” derives from a rum drink and not from coffee. Who knows, maybe the kiosk in Barcelona got its name from the Cuban sugar plantations, too, and both stories are partly true.
“Chiringuito” is the Spanish spelling, by the way. In Catalan, the word is spelt “xiringuito”, and what is not generally disputed is that the first ever xiringuito beach bar in Spain opened in 1913 on Platja de Ribera in Sitges, Catalunya. Nowadays, they can be found on almost every beach in the country during the summer months. They are usually licensed to operate from around March or April (depending on when Easter falls) until the end of October. Some open earlier or shut down later than others, but when the season is done, they are all dismantled and removed until the following year.
Looks can be deceiving!
Despite their basic appearance, most xiringuitos have fully equipped kitchens and turn out some surprisingly good food, particularly seafood. It’s unlikely you’ll be offered a menú del día in a xiringuito but rather la carta, and the type of fare on offer can vary a lot from one xiringuito to the next. It has to be said, too, that some are better than others and that certain xiringuitos are overpriced and can be pretty terrible in terms of service and/or food on offer. Anyone can have a bad day, though, and we’re not in the business of giving negative press that may damage someone’s business (although the overpricing issue in some places does not depend on the day!).
Xiringuitos are beach bars, not regular restaurants. It is important for customers to realise that, although most xiringuitos have proper kitchens, they are, by their very nature, a lot smaller than a typical restaurant, and so the menus will usually be less extensive. In addition, xiringuitos are very expensive to run, and their season is very short, so you can expect to pay a little bit extra for the experience of dining and/or imbibing in such a privileged location.
Anyway, without further ado, let us tell you about one of the finer xiringuitos we know on the Baix Empordà section of La Costa Brava: Txiringuito L’Onada in Palamós.
L’Onada Txiringuito – Palamós, Costa Brava
L’Onada is Catalan for “the wave” and you can expect some positive waves here on Platja Gran, the main beach of the port town of Palamós, which also just happens to be one of our favourite Costa Brava beaches! If looking across the Bay of Palamós in a chilled-out and friendly ambiance sounds pretty cool to you, and if cocktails, good beer, top-quality wine, and fresh seafood are to your liking, then this is almost certainly the chiringuito for you!
Background
Txiringuito L’Onada has been run since 1995 by the same family with origins in Navarra/Basque Country. The very name reflects those origins, with ”txiringuito” being the Basque spelling and “L’Onada”, as explained above, being from the Catalan language. With one parent each from Navarra and Catalunya, the current generation grew up between both regions and have always been involved in the hospitality industry, the next generation are already learning the ropes.
Drawing from both traditions, many of the dishes on offer feature an element of fusion between Catalan and Navarran-Basque cuisine. They also place a heavy emphasis on sustainability with the use of plastics, for example, kept to an absolute minimum and all of their food is sourced locally and seasonally – but more on that a little later.
Get your day off to the perfect start
Txiringuito L’Onada opens at 10:00 in the morning, and until midday, it offers its customers “Healthy Breakfasts” with the aim of starting the day in the best possible way and encouraging beneficial and healthy eating habits. After all, it is said by many that breakfast is the most important meal of the day! Some days, you can even combine your first meal of the day with different activities for all ages, such as yoga or pilates classes on the beach. Or just take a stroll along the beautiful seafront promenade!
Vermut time!
The following time slot, from around midday to lunchtime, is popularly known locally as “L’Hora del Vermut” (vermouth time). In case you’re a newcomer to Catalunya, “vermut” (as it’s spelt in Catalan) is a very popular aperitif, particularly on weekends and there are almost as many different “recipes” for vermut as there are places to drink them, and at L’Onada have their own vermut de la casa too.
A typical accompaniment to a vermut or two before lunch is a little seafood snack, or “pica-pica,” and at Txiringuito L’Onada, priority is given to local species of fish and seafood such as white prawns, crayfish, sardines, anchovies, or pulpo (octopus) from Cap de Creus. You can just have some patatas and olives, and there are also some superb local wines on offer, as well as vermouth.
Live music
“L’Hora del Vermut” wouldn’t be the same without music, and so Txiringuito L’Onada came up with the concept of “Vermut Musical”, with live and unplugged piano music. For 12 years, the renowned jazz musician Joaquim “Lucky” Guri, enlivened the weekend l’hora de vermut with great success and was much loved by all who witnessed his performances over the years. Sadly, Lucky passed away in June 2023, but his memory and legacy will live on for a very long time to come at Txiringuito L’Onada.
The show must go on, however, and there are regular live music gigs throughout the summer, sometimes in the afternoon, sometimes a little later in the evening – and sometimes they just happen spontaneously!
Sun loungers + umbrellas
As well as the lovely terrace, also on offer at Txiringuito L’Onada are sun loungers right on the beach, between the terrace and the water. For a very reasonable amount, €30, you can rent two loungers complete with a sun umbrella for the whole day. That way, you can enjoy your morning on la platja, followed by a vermut (or whatever), have lunch on the terrace, and return to your lounger for the afternoon. You can bring your drinks with you to your sun lounger in plastic glasses, but unlike many other places, plastic glasses are not horrible, flimsy ones; instead, they are sturdier, more reusable, and more recyclable.
Drinks
When it comes to beer, one of the drawbacks with most chiringuitos is that they usually only have one type available – the usual fizzy yellow lager. Txiringuito L’Onada, on the other hand, also has bottles of Lagunitas IPA to go along with the Heineken Silver on tap. The wine selection is carefully chosen too, and the list includes, amongst other local varieties, wines from the very excellent Clos d’Agon winery in Calonge. Oh, and the gin and tonics are pretty damn excellent too!
Lunchtime!
And so to lunchtime! At Txiringuito L’Onada, it’s all about fresh and traditional cuisine with a wide and dynamic gastronomy on offer, designed for all consumers and for all ages. The culinary proposal of L’Onada is mainly based on seafood and traditional Empordà cuisine, with some specialty dishes arising from the fusion of the cuisines of Catalunya and the Basque Country. And when it comes to ingredients, there’s a strong emphasis on “km0” produce.
All dishes on the menu are based on local and seasonally available products, including local and regional vegetables and fruits, the renowned ecologically grown Pals rice, and, needless to say, fresh fish and seafood straight from the Port of Palamós, literally a matter of metres away. There is no set menu at L’Onada as the dishes on offer will vary according to what fresh produce is available locally.
There are a few favourites that are available all summer long, but the day’s menu mostly depends on what the fishermen bring home from the sea and what farmers have just harvested. The meat served is also organically sourced. Celiacs and vegetarians are also catered for, and there are dishes specially for children, too.
The lunch service at Txringuito L’Onada has always been characterized by its immediacy, as all dishes are cooked only as they are ordered. With “Mum” still the head of the kitchen, everything is prepared with the same love and enthusiasm as it has been since the very first day back in 1995. That’s almost thirty years of accumulated experience in the world of traditional Empordà cuisine!
What’s km0?
Let’s get back to that km0 thingy again for a moment! “What is km0, exactly?” you may ask. Well, km0 = “kilometre zero”! Specifically, it is an increasingly widely used concept that refers to the distance that food travels from the place where it is produced until it reaches the consumer. Although there is not yet an official definition for km0 in Catalunya, the concept is supported by the Patronat de Turisme Costa Brava Girona.
The idea is that when talking about a “km0 product”, it is understood that it has travelled no more than 100 km from its place of production to the restaurant or shop in question. km0 products support the local economy and gastronomy, reduce their impact on the environment, and also respect the natural cycles of the environment from which they come. Km0 food is a lot more flavourful and nutritious too, naturally.
The concept of km0 also applies to wine, and the selection at Txiringuito L’Onada is exclusively from the Denomination d’Origen Empordà. There is also a choice selection of other alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks and cocktails. After lunch, traditional and homemade desserts are available, as is a selection of cheeses from around the province of Girona.
Chill-out afternoons
Afternoons at the Txiringuito L’Onada are ideal for a bit of family time, with the relaxed post-lunch atmosphere. Enjoy an ice cream or maybe some hand-cut seasonal fruits, or why not a cocktail or two, with or without alcohol? The desserts, by the way, are either homemade or sourced from Ca La Nuri, artisanal producers of goat’s cheese, milk and yogurt from just up the road in Ullastret.
The terrace is the ideal environment to enjoy the warmth and tranquility of a Costa Brava summer’s day until sunset, with a selection of ambient music to help you enjoy your holidays to the fullest. The piano is always there, and from time to time there are impromptu piano performances, including sometimes from customers, and anyone who happens to know how to tickle the ivories is welcome to bang out a few tunes!
Evening time
When night comes, Txiringuito L’Onada offers dinners in a magical atmosphere that are designed to satisfy all types: groups, couples, families, and people of all ages who want to enjoy local Empordà gastronomy in a privileged environment. As it does every year, L’Onada hosts unique gastronomic proposals with different formats and techniques. Some examples are dishes with little-known local fish species of great gastronomic value, cuisine with flowers, and fusion dishes with Nikkei cuisine.
Nikkei cuisine, in case you’re wondering, refers to a unique type of fusion between Japanese and Peruvian cuisines. A significant number of Japanese immigrants arrived in Peru to work on sugar plantations just over a century ago, and their descendants – and their cuisine! – became an integral part of Peruvian society. The result was Nikkei cuisine.
As is the case at lunchtime, everything is prepared at the moment of ordering, never sooner, using only the best local and seasonal products from our beloved Empordà region.
Still going strong
For almost three decades, Txiringuito L’Onada has dedicated itself to promoting local and Empordà gastronomy, culture, and its most native traditions. Although there have been many changes over the years, and the family has had to adapt to the ever-evolving demands of both the environment and their customers, the family-oriented atmosphere and service have remained in place. Whatever else has changed, however, the goal has not: to offer the highest quality possible and ensure the best experience possible for their customers in one of the most beautiful xiringuitos on the entire Costa Brava!
